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Kosher Locusts
(יט) וְכֹל֙ שֶׁ֣רֶץ הָע֔וֹף טָמֵ֥א ה֖וּא לָכֶ֑ם לֹ֖א יֵאָכֵֽלוּ׃ (כ) כׇּל־ע֥וֹף טָה֖וֹר תֹּאכֵֽלוּ׃

(19) All swarming winged creatures are impure for you: they may not be eaten. (20) You may eat pure winged creatures.

Note that the word for "winged creatures" (עוֹף) is usually translated "fowl" and that's what it usually means. But in verse 19, it definitely means winged creatures because they're described as "swarming" and the Torah describes bugs, not birds, as swarming. If verse 20 is about birds, then your Torah portion (from which this verse comes) seems to say no bugs can be eaten, but in the parallel and generally similar list about kosher animals in the Torah book of Leviticus, it names four bugs that can be eaten:

(כ) כֹּ֚ל שֶׁ֣רֶץ הָע֔וֹף הַהֹלֵ֖ךְ עַל־אַרְבַּ֑ע שֶׁ֥קֶץ ה֖וּא לָכֶֽם׃ (כא) אַ֤ךְ אֶת־זֶה֙ תֹּֽאכְל֔וּ מִכֹּל֙ שֶׁ֣רֶץ הָע֔וֹף הַהֹלֵ֖ךְ עַל־אַרְבַּ֑ע אֲשֶׁר־[ל֤וֹ] (לא) כְרָעַ֙יִם֙ מִמַּ֣עַל לְרַגְלָ֔יו לְנַתֵּ֥ר בָּהֵ֖ן עַל־הָאָֽרֶץ׃ (כב) אֶת־אֵ֤לֶּה מֵהֶם֙ תֹּאכֵ֔לוּ אֶת־הָֽאַרְבֶּ֣ה לְמִינ֔וֹ וְאֶת־הַסׇּלְעָ֖ם לְמִינֵ֑הוּ וְאֶת־הַחַרְגֹּ֣ל לְמִינֵ֔הוּ וְאֶת־הֶחָגָ֖ב לְמִינֵֽהוּ׃ (כג) וְכֹל֙ שֶׁ֣רֶץ הָע֔וֹף אֲשֶׁר־ל֖וֹ אַרְבַּ֣ע רַגְלָ֑יִם שֶׁ֥קֶץ ה֖וּא לָכֶֽם׃

(20) All winged swarming things that walk on fours shall be an abomination for you. (21) But these you may eat among all the winged swarming things that walk on fours: all that have, above their feet, jointed legs to leap with on the ground— (22) of these you may eat the following: arbeh (locusts) of every variety; all varieties of sol'am; hargol of every variety; and all varieties of hagav (grasshopper?). (23) But all [other] winged swarming things that have four legs shall be an abomination for you.

How did the previous generations of rabbis resolve the contradiction in a text they believed to perfect and consistent? They reinterpreted Deuteronomy 14:20:

כל עוף טהור תאכלו לפי פשוטו להביא חגבים טהורים שלא הזכיר כאן.

(Chizkuni is a 13th century anthology of rabbinic teachings.)

“you may eat every ritually pure bird:” According to the plain/literal meaning of the text, this includes certain species of locusts and grasshoppers not listed here by name.

This seems astounding and it is, but a little less astounding than it may seem to readers who aren't that familiar with rabbinic text study methods. First, we've already seen that עוף can sometimes refer to winged creatures other than bugs. And here, Chizkuni (or the author he's citing) is probably thinking something like this: The Torah didn't have to tell us we could eat pure fowl; if it's pure, we know we can eat it. So it must be trying to tell us something else. The most sensible possibility is that it's meant to modify verse 19 by adding that you actually can eat the pure bugs, namely the grasshoppers/locusts. Nonetheless, to call this the "plain/literal meaning of the text" is a bit of a stretch.

In any case, the Torah in Leviticus says these certain bugs are kosher ("pure") and that becomes codified in Jewish law in the Mishnah (~200 CE) like this:

(ז) וּבַחֲגָבִים, כֹּל שֶׁיֶּשׁ לוֹ אַרְבַּע רַגְלַיִם, וְאַרְבַּע כְּנָפַיִם, וְקַרְסֻלַּיִם, וּכְנָפָיו חוֹפִין אֶת רֻבּוֹ. רַבִּי יוֹסֵי אוֹמֵר, וּשְׁמוֹ חָגָב.

(7) And among the hagavim, any that has four legs, and four wings, and two jumping legs, and whose wings cover most of its body, [is kosher]. Rabbi Yosei says: And if its name is hagav .

Here, the Mishnah is apparently using "hagav" as a generic term that includes the first three bugs mentioned in the Torah in addition to the one it calls "hagav." That's confusing, since the Torah used four different names. Maybe the first three are supposed to be subcategories? And it's not clear whether Rabbi Yosei is right. In fact, some later commentators think he's not and some think he is.

A passage in the Talmud lists twelve Hebrew and Aramaic names of bugs (and a bird, maybe?) that are kosher:

ת"ר (ויקרא יא, כב) את אלה מהם תאכלו את הארבה וגו' ארבה זה גובאי סלעם זה רשון חרגול זה ניפול חגב זה גדיאן מה ת"ל (ויקרא יא, טו) למינו למינהו למינהו למינהו ד' פעמים להביא ציפורת כרמים ויוחנא ירושלמית והערצוביא והרזבנית
The Sages taught in a baraita that the verse states: “These of them you may eat: The arbeh after its kinds, and the solam after its kinds, and the ḥargol after its kinds, and the ḥagav after its kinds” (Leviticus 11:22). The arbeh is the insect known as the govai. The solam is the rashon. The ḥargol is the nippul. The ḥagav is the gadyan. Why must the verse state: “After its kinds,” “after its kinds,” “after its kinds,” and “after its kinds,” four times? It is to include four similar species: The vineyard bird, and the Jerusalem yoḥana, and the artzuveya, and the razbanit, which are also kosher.

But:

(ב) ממעל לרגליו. …וְצָרִיךְ שֶׁיְּהֵא שְׁמוֹ חָגָב, וּבָזֶה אֵין אָנוּ יוֹדְעִים לְהַבְדִּיל בֵּינֵיהֶן:

(2) ממעל לרגליו ABOVE ITS FEET — … It is necessary that they should bear the name

hagav and we do not know how to distinguish one from another.

So Rashi (1040-1105) says we can't eat any bugs because we don't know which were called hagav. And that has been the practice in Europe apart from Spain and, eventually in Mesopotamia, Eretz Yisrael, and Tunisia. But in Yemen and Morocco, they kept eating certain locusts. The places that stopped eating locusts seem to have done so because Rashi became more and more revered and hard to disagree with over the last few centuries.

But the Yemenites stuck to their tradition:

Rabbi Amram Korah. , Sa‘arat Teiman (Jerusalem, 1993), 94, quoted in "The Eating of Locusts in Jewish Tradition After the Talmudic Period" by Zohar Amar (http://halachicadventures.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/TU11_Amar.pdf)

It is a tradition passed down from previous generations in all the regions of Yemen that the locust, renowned for its tremendous numbers and known in Arabic as garad is a kind of hagav and is kosher. And when they see the wing of it, they rejoice at its coming. Even though they are sorry about the damage it causes in consuming the grain of the country, nonetheless they take momentary pleasure in it. Towards evening, they look over the roofs where the locust has alighted, and though it be a walk of an hour or two, they rise early before dawn, while the land is still frozen with the cold, and leave the city, man, woman, and child, and every one is carrying a bag. They collect whatever comes to hand. Whoever has a donkey fills sacks and loads them onto his donkey, and they come back to the country joyful and happy, like someone who has found great treasure.

The Wikipedia article on kosher locusts (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kosher_locust) indicates that the Yemenites consider three species kosher: Among Yemenite Jews "continuous tradition" exists for 3 species: desert locust (Schistocerca gregaria), migratory locust (Locusta migratoria), and Egyptian locust (Anacridium aegyptium).

So how are locusts eaten?

חֲגָבִים טְמֵאִים שֶׁנִּכְבְּשׁוּ עִם חֲגָבִים טְהוֹרִים, לֹא פָסְלוּ אֶת צִירָם. הֵעִיד רַבִּי צָדוֹק עַל צִיר חֲגָבִים טְמֵאִים, שֶׁהוּא טָהוֹר:

If unclean locusts were pickled together with clean ones, they do not make the brine forbidden. Rabbi Zadok testified that the brine of unclean locusts is clean.

So apparently, pickling was one ancient way of preparing locusts.

According to this article about locusts being eaten during a locust invasion in Israel in 2013, there are several delicious ways to eat locusts:

  • Chocolate-covered
  • Drop them into a boiling broth, clean them off, and roll in a mixture of flour, coriander seeds, garlic and chilli powder. Then deep-fry them.
  • Pan-frying is another good option, and they are "crunchy, tasty and sweet" ... when mixed with caramel and sprinkled into meringue.

You'll be happy to know that kosher locusts can be bought from the Biblical Museum of Natural History and shipped to the United States (and probably can be obtained elsewhere as well). https://www.biblicalnaturalhistory.org/product-page/locusts

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